《Characteristics》 An embodiment of Japanese aesthetics

Kyo-yuzen is a type of dyed fabric made in Kyoto, and it is characterized by the use of a wide range of colors and by patterns called “yuzen moyo,” with which animals, plants, flowers, etc. are depicted like paintings. One of the most famous combinations features bright red color and gold and silver leaf that give the fabric a gorgeous and flamboyant look. Originated from Kyoto’s passion for elegance, this dyed fabric, which makes its wearer beautiful, is highly valued both in Japan and overseas.

Gorgeous and dazzling colors and patterns

《History》The tradition that has been passed down since the Edo period

The history of Kyo-yuzen dates back to the Edo period. Its origin is the dyed products made by a then-famous folding fan painter named Miyazaki Yuzensai. It is said that this art form began flourishing after the technique, which he was using to draw beautiful paintings on folding fans, was applied to kimono.

The technique became more sophisticated with time. During the 19th century Meiji period, Western chemical dyes were introduced to Japan, which gave rise to a method in which colored glues are made with chemical dyes and glue, and then the colored glues are used for creating and dyeing yuzen patterns using stencils.

The traditional method employed by the artisans

《The fabrication process》The product of artisanal skills

Different steps of the Kyo-yuzen fabrication process are handled by multiple specialized artisans. In the first step called “shitae,” special blue liquid called “aobana eki” is used to draw patterns on a fabric, which matches the size of the kimono to be made. In the second step called “itome nori oki,” glue is placed meticulously along the outline of the patterns to prevent colors from blending. In the next step called “iro sashi,” various colors are applied carefully by tracing the design using a brush, and this step requires a high level of skill and an extraordinary feel for color.

Next, these steps are followed by steps called “fuse nori oki” and “jizome.” In fuse nori oki, glue and wax are placed on the patterns so as to prevent colors from spoiling the patterns during jizome (dyeing of areas other than the patterns that are already dyed). Once jizome is done, steps called “mushi” and “mizu arai” are performed to let the dyes set firmly and to wash away excessive glue and wax. People used to do these steps in the Kamo River in Kyoto, and it was a common sight during winter.

In the final step called “shiage,” thin gold and platinum leaf, fine metal powder, etc. are applied for decoration. A variety of methods, such as “sunago” and “surihaku,” are used during this step, and the outcome is greatly affected by the artisan’s creativity and skills. Adorned with vivid yet delicate expression and with artful embroideries, the fabric transforms into a deep but flamboyant piece of art.

All steps are carried out by artisans with elaborate care.

《Contemporary Kyo-yuzen》

Still to this day, Kyo-yuzen is valued as a top-of-the-line attire for special occasions. People wear stunning, yuzen-dyed kimono on celebratory occasions and important life milestones, such as coming-of-age ceremonies and wedding ceremonies, to beautifully elevate the occasion.

A true embodiment of Japan’s aesthetics and traditional skills—Kyo-yuzen is one of Japan’s cultural gems that we truly recommend that you see for yourself when visiting Japan.

■DATA Kyoto Yuzen Cooperative Official website: https://kyo-yuzen.or.jp/ (Information as of April 2025)

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