Tracing the footsteps of ukiyo-e artist Katsushika Hokusai in his birthplace—Sumida.

Katsushika Hokusai is famous for works such as “Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji.” We strolled around Sumida—the birth town of one of the most notable artists of Japan—thinking about the scenery he may have seen.
Katsushika Hokusai is the creator of “Under the Wave off Kanagawa, from the series Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji” depicting Mt. Fuji and the waves that many people would think of when they hear the term “ukiyo-e.” He is highly recognized beyond Japan, and his works are housed in places like The National Library of France and The British Museum. It is widely known that his works led to the Japonisme movement in Europe, influencing big-name artists like Monet, Van Gogh, and Gallé.
Now, if you want to know about Hokusai, we recommend that you visit Ryogoku in Sumida-ku. While Ryogoku is famous for sumo wrestling, it is also known as a town where many cultural figures resided, and Hokusai was one of them. In this article, we would like to introduce some places related to Hokusai.
■The view along the Sumida River

Born in Sumida, Hokusai spent almost his whole life there. As you walk along the Sumida River that Hokusai may have watched almost every day, you will find the Ryogoku Bridge. The river and the bridge appear in many of his works, such as “Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji” and “Picture book of the Sumida River-Both banks at a glance.” There is an information board nearby, and pictures of Sumida drawn by many ukiyo-e artists, including Hokusai, are on display on the walls along the path. It is also fun to compare the scenery depicted in the ukiyo-e and how it is today.

The information board about Hokusai’s works

Even the benches on the street have Hokusai’s ukiyo-e on them.
■Hokusai-dori Street (former Minami-Warigesui, also known as Honjo-Warigesui)

It is said that Hokusai was born in 1760 near Minami-Warigesui (also known as Honjo-wari Gesui), a water channel constructed during the Edo period. The channel was reclaimed in the early Showa period and is now called Hokusai-dori Street. On the street, you will find a notice board explaining Hokusai’s birth, as well as manhole covers and mosaic art featuring Hokusai wood block prints. At Azuma Arare Honpo in Ryogoku, you can get Hokusai-themed snacks, such as “Hokusai Age” and “Hokusai Okaki,” that make a perfect souvenir. Enjoy a stroll along the street, thinking of Hokusai.

The birthplace of Hokusai who created many masterpieces

The mosaic ukiyo-e art on the ground
■The Sumida Hokusai Museum

Photo taken with permission
Toward the western end of Hokusai-dori Street, there is The Sumida Hokusai Museum, which is a must-go place for understanding Hokusai, as it houses about 2,200 works created by Hokusai and his students. It has two exhibition areas: one is for a permanent exhibition, and the other one for special exhibitions held several times a year. AURORA(Permanent Exhibition Room) features life-sized, high-definition replicas of ukiyo-e works, as well as a model recreating Hokusai’s atelier. The ukiyo-e works are displayed in chronological order, so you can see the changes in his drawing style. For original ukiyo-e works, the number of days permitted for display is limited for preservation purposes. Check out the museum’s website for the schedule for when you can see the valuable actual works.

The exhibit includes nikuhitsu-ga (hand-painted artworks), Hokusai manga, and even printing blocks. Photo taken with permission

Hokusai’s atelier has also been recreated. Photo taken with permission
There are many other Hokusai-related spots in Sumida besides the ones introduced here. Katsushika Hokusai—an artist who has played a crucial role in the history of Japanese art. Why not visit Sumida and experience what he saw, what he created, and how he lived?
■DATA The Sumida Hokusai Museum Address: 2-7-2 Kamezawa, Sumida-ku, Tokyo Phone: 03-6658-8936 Official website: https://hokusai-museum.jp/?lang=en (Information as of September 2024)
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